“Tropical rain greeted us on our arrival at our first Eastern port – Colombo. We went ashore early in the afternoon – Pearl, Pat, Kap, and Graeme and myself. We had hired a car, and what a car and driver. An ancient tourer model, miles long and open at the sides. We rattled round Colombo, stared at by all. We were very very glad that Kap was with us to talk back at the driver and keep down the tips to the numerous beggars and entertainers.
We stopped to watch a snake charmer, and drove out to Mount Lavinia where we had afternoon coffee on the hotel terrace, overlooking a tropical bay. We strolled through the grounds and drove back to Colombo. After a quick look through some shops, we returned on the launch to the ship, for a hurried change for the dinner dance the Galle Face Hotel. This was a perfect night – luxurious and sparkling. The Galle Face is a luxurious building. There is a raised dance floor below the stage, and tables all around. Our dinner, interspersed with dancing lasted from about 8 till 10 and we danced on till about 12. Band was extra good, food somewhat peculiar, but it was fascinating to be waited on by dark waiters, barefooted and white robed. And there was such an abundance of them. We couldn’t shake off a near-drunk local who joined our party late in the evening, and had to let him drive us back to the launch – roaring up the wrong side of the road with our hearts in our mouths. We made the last launch back to the ship – this was like a ride in a fairyland among the lit up ships in the harbour.. We sat up till after 2am to watch the lights of Colombo grow further and further away.”
Excerpt from Jean’s note book journal
Jean’s account of her day in Colombo as written to her sister Mary adds some further insights:
“We came into Colombo about midday and went ashore sightseeing in the afternoon. We hired a taxi, and were very glad that we had our Indian friend, Kap, with us. The trip was simply a drive round Colombo itself, then out to Mt Lavinia Hotel for afternoon tea (a townships here consisting of shops to catch tourists). Kap warned us that if we bought anything in Colombo we’d be robbed, so we did no shopping, althought we had fun looking round the shops. Kap knew the language, and was expert at dispatching beggars and salesmen. They make the most beautiful coffee imaginable in Ceylon and Southern India, and we enjoyed it at afternoon tea time.
We came back to the ship, and rushed round getting dressed to go to dinner and dance at the Galle Face hotel in Colombo. Five of us went, and spent one of the most exciting evenings I’ve ever had. A most luxurious place, with bare-footed dark waiters running everywhere. Dancing between courses, the meal lasted until about ten o’clock. We stayed till twelve, and just made the ship. The ship doesn’t tie up at Colombo or Aden. The wharves are too small and you go ashore by launch. It was fascinating at Colombo returning at night among all the floodlit ships in the harbour. The Himalaya is a lovely sight at night, and stands out well above all the other ships we’ve seen in ports. We stayed up to watch the ship sail, and the lights of Colombo disappear, and I was tired for nearly a week after.”
Jean’s letter to her sister Mary, dated 11 May 1951 (sent by ordinary mail from the Gulf of Suez)
